High molecular weight hyaluronic acid vectorised with clay provides long-term hydration and reduces skin brightness.

BACKGROUND: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a widely used active cosmetic ingredient. Its multiple skin care benefits are modulated by its molecular weight. Low molecular weight (LMW) HA can penetrate the skin, but high molecular weight (HMW) HA remains at the surface. Here, we assessed how vectorization of HMW HA with bentonite clay-achieved with an innovative technology-enhances its cosmetic and hydrating properties. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The two HA forms were applied to skin explants; their penetration and smoothing effects were monitored by Raman spectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy. The two forms were biochemically characterised by chromatography, enzyme sensitivity assays, and analysis of Zeta potential. Cosmetics benefits such as, the smoothing effect of vectorised-HA was assessed in ex vivo experiments on skin explants. A placebo-controlled clinical study was finally conducted applying treatments for 28 days to analyse the final benefits in crow's feet area. RESULTS: Raman spectroscopy analysis revealed native HMW HA to accumulate at the surface of skin explants, whereas vectorised HMW HA was detected in deeper skin layers. This innovative vectorisation process changed the zeta potential of vectorised HMW HA, being then more anionic and negative without impacting the biochemical structure of native HA. In terms of cosmetic benefits, following application of vectorised HMW HA ex vivo, the skin's surface was visibly smoother. This smoothing was clinically confirmed, with a significant reduction in fine lines. CONCLUSION: The development of innovative process vectorising HMW HA allowed HMW HA penetration in the skin. This enhanced penetration extends the clinical benefits of this iconic cosmetic ingredient.

Efficacy and Tolerability of Topical 0.1% Stabilized Bioactive Retinol for Photoaging: A Vehicle-Controlled Integrated Analysis.

INTRODUCTION: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet light photoages skin. Retinol, a precursor molecule to retinoic acid that causes less irritation, is available as a nonprescription, cosmetic retinoid and improves collagen production, skin elasticity, and signs of photoaging. Advances in formulation science have allowed the production of stabilized bioactive retinol formulations. This integrated analysis aims to build on previous studies and further examine the comprehensive efficacy and tolerability of topical 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol. METHODS: This analysis included 6 vehicle-controlled studies of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in women with mild-to-moderate signs of photodamage. Across all studies, the same dermatologist investigator assessed overall photodamage; wrinkles on the forehead, cheeks, and undereye area; crow’s feet wrinkles and fine lines; lack of even skin tone; and brown spots at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12 on a numerical scale. Tolerability was also assessed. RESULTS: Participants (retinol, N=237; vehicle, N=234) had a mean (SD) age of 47.4 (6.6) years. Retinol induced greater improvements from baseline in all signs of photoaging vs vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks of application. Few participants experienced irritation; all events were mild to moderate and transient. The most common signs of irritation were erythema (n=2) and skin scaling/peeling (n=5). CONCLUSIONS: This pooled analysis of 6 vehicle-controlled clinical studies provides new evidence for the efficacy of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in improving signs of photoaging without causing major irritation. Topical 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol was well tolerated with only a few reported cases of skin irritation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(4):     doi:10.36849/JDD.8124.

Molecular Insights Into the Effects of PLLA-SCA on Gene Expression and Collagen Synthesis in Human 3D Skin Models Containing Macrophages.

Injectable poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA-SCA) is used for the correction of shallow to deep nasolabial fold contour deficiencies, cheek wrinkles, and other facial wrinkles. In contrast to hyaluronan (HA) fillers, PLLA-SCA has a biostimulatory effect by activating resident fibroblasts to produce collagen, but the mechanisms are not known in detail at the molecular level. Therefore, our aim was to investigate the molecular effects of PLLA-SCA in a comprehensive in vitro study. Since PLLA-SCA-dependent collagen production in fibroblasts depends on the interaction with macrophages, we generated novel macrophage-containing 3D skin models. According to the clinical application, PLLA-SCA was injected once into the dermal equivalent of the 3D skin model. Histological analysis showed a significant increase in epidermal thickness in these models after 5 and 14 days. Gene expression profiling revealed an upregulation of integrins and laminins (e.g., LAMA3, ITGA6), which are essential components of the dermal-epidermal junction. In addition, we found an upregulation of cytokines and chemokines (TGFB2, CXCL6, IL1B) at day 14 after PLLA-SCA injection. Interestingly, immunohistochemical analyses exhibited a significantly stimulated collagen I production in our models. These effects might be attributed, at least in part, to the upregulation of IL1B and subsequently CXCL6, which stimulates collagen I synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts as we could demonstrate. Taken together, our data provide for the first time molecular insights into the biostimulatory effects of PLLA-SCA on collagen I production in novel human 3D skin models comprising macrophages. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(4):7791.    doi:10.36849/JDD.7791.

Comparing the Safety and Effectiveness of Microfocused Ultrasound: Standard vs Targeted Tissue Protocol in Lifting and Tightening the Lower Face and Upper Neck.

BACKGROUND: Micro-focused ultrasound with visualization (MFU-V) delivers energy to specific soft tissue layers beneath the epidermis with the ability to lift and tighten the lower face and neck.  Objective: To determine the efficacy of microfocused ultrasound with visualization (MFU-V) using a standard treatment line protocol versus a customized treatment line protocol based on the patient's unique anatomy targeting the superficial muscular aponeurotic system and fibrous septae for lifting and tightening of the lower face and neck. METHODS: This was a single-center, prospective, randomized, investigator-blinded clinical trial. 51 subjects were randomized to receive a single treatment of MFU-V targeting the lower face and neck using either a standard or custom treatment protocol.   Results: Subjects in both standard and custom treatment groups noted a greater than one-point improvement in jawline laxity. Three-dimensional photography measurements also demonstrated lifting of the lower face and neck in both treatment groups. CONCLUSION: Custom and standard treatment MFU-V protocols produce a safe and effective treatment for tightening and lifting the lower face and neck. Custom treatment protocols aid in maximizing results for patients with variations in the anatomy of the lower face and neck.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(4):7647.     doi:10.36849/JDD.7647.

Effectiveness and Safety of a New Hyaluronic Acid Injectable for Augmentation and Correction of Chin Retrusion.

BACKGROUND: A hyaluronic acid (HA) filler intended for non-surgical improvement of chin appearance should ideally be of high strength/firmness (high G') to allow for deep injections on the bone. HASHA (Restylane Shaype) is a new hyaluronic acid (HA) injectable with high G' and high HA concentration (25 mg/mL), engineered by the new NASHA-HD (High Definition) technology. HASHA is suitable to be placed periosteally, aiming to mimic the natural shape of the bony chin. This pivotal clinical investigation evaluated effectiveness and safety of HASHA for augmentation and correction of chin retrusion.  Methods: Subjects 18 years or older with mild or moderate chin retrusion by the Galderma Chin Retrusion Scale (GCRS), were randomized 3:1 to HASHA (n=103) or no treatment (n=37). Assessments included GCRS (blinded evaluator), aesthetic improvement (Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale [GAIS]), subject satisfaction, and safety.  Results: GCRS responder rate (1-grade or greater improvement from baseline) was significantly higher for HASHA (83.3%) versus controls (10.8%) at month 3 (P<0.001) and maintained through month 12 (P<0.001). Aesthetic improvement was high throughout the study in the HASHA group, according to investigators (97% or greater) and subjects (89% or greater). Overall, subject satisfaction was high at month 3 and maintained at month 12. Product- or injection-related adverse events were mostly mild or moderate and transient. No product- or injection-related serious adverse events were reported. CONCLUSIONS: HASHA, a new NASHA-HD injectable with extra strength/firmness, was safe and effective for chin augmentation and correction of chin retrusion, with high aesthetic improvement and subject satisfaction throughout 12 months. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(4):255-261.     doi:10.36849/JDD.8145.

Comparison of UVA vs UVB Photoaging Rat Models in Short-term Exposure.

Background: Prolonged exposure to sunlight is known to induce photoaging of the skin, leading to various skin changes and disorders, such as dryness, wrinkles, irregular pigmentation, and even cancer. Ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation are particularly responsible for causing photoaging. Objective: This study aims to identify and compare photoaging rat models exposed to UVA and UVB. Methods: This research method compared macroscopic (scoring degree of wrinkling) and microscopic (histology) signs and symptoms on skin samples of rat exposed to UVA and UVB for 4 weeks at a radiation dose of 840mJ/cm2. Results: The results of this study indicated that the degree of wrinkling was highest in rat skin exposed to UVB rays by 51% (p<0.05). UVB histological results showed that the epidermis layer (40 µm, p<0.05) was thickened and the dermis layer (283 µm, p<0.05) was thinned in the skin of mice exposed to UVB light. The UVB group, showed the density of collagen in the dermis with a mean value of 55% (p<0.05). Conclusion: Our results suggest that short-term exposure to UVB radiation (in the acute, subacute or subchronic phase) induces more rapid and pronounced damage to rat skin when compared to UVA radiation exposure.

Why do marionette lines appear? Exploring the anatomical perspectives and role of thread-based interventions.

The pathogenesis of marionette lines involves a complex interplay of anatomical, physiological, and age-related factors leading to the development of wrinkles around the oral commissures. This exploration delves into the distinct anatomical predispositions observed among different ethnicities, emphasizing the role of compact modiolus structures and muscle compositions. Notably, individuals of East Asian descent exhibit inherent facial structures that predispose them to pronounced sagging around the oral commissures during aging. The emergence of distinct facial lines, such as the commissural line and the melolabial fold, contributes to the formation of marionette lines. This specific wrinkle pattern, resembling a marionette puppet's mouth contours, is influenced by various factors like bone resorption, gravitational forces, fat compartment variations, muscle compression, ligament tethering, and skin aging. Treatment strategies for marionette lines encompass diverse interventions, including filler injections, botulinum neurotoxin, surgeries targeting fat reduction, thread lifting, and volumizing fillers. These approaches aim to address the underlying causes and mitigate the appearance of marionette lines. Botulinum neurotoxin injections, for instance, weaken specific facial muscles, reducing downward strain and aiding in tissue retraction. Anatomical considerations during procedures are crucial to avoid nerve or vascular damage. Delicate manipulation and precise entry points are essential to prevent inadvertent injuries, particularly concerning blood vessels like the facial artery and nerves like the mental nerve. Technical guidelines for procedures targeting marionette lines involve specific techniques like cogged thread reverse methods and volumizing thread placements. Attention to entry points, tissue engagement, and the direction of threads is crucial for effective treatment outcomes, minimizing complications, and ensuring patient safety.

Research Progress on Bioactive Factors against Skin Aging.

The relentless pursuit of effective strategies against skin aging has led to significant interest in the role of bioactive factors, particularly secondary metabolites from natural sources. The purpose of this study is to meticulously explore and summarize the recent advancements in understanding and utilization of bioactive factors against skin aging, with a focus on their sources, mechanisms of action, and therapeutic potential. Skin, the largest organ of the body, directly interacts with the external environment, making it susceptible to aging influenced by factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and oxidative stress. Among various interventions, bioactive factors, including peptides, amino acids, and secondary metabolites, have shown promising anti-aging effects by modulating the biological pathways associated with skin integrity and youthfulness. This article provides a comprehensive overview of these bioactive compounds, emphasizing collagen peptides, antioxidants, and herbal extracts, and discusses their effectiveness in promoting collagen synthesis, enhancing skin barrier function, and mitigating the visible signs of aging. By presenting a synthesis of the current research, this study aims to highlight the therapeutic potential of these bioactive factors in developing innovative anti-aging skin care solutions, thereby contributing to the broader field of dermatological research and offering new perspectives for future studies. Our findings underscore the importance of the continued exploration of bioactive compounds for their potential to revolutionize anti-aging skin care and improve skin health and aesthetics.

Human Dermal Decellularized ECM Hydrogels as Scaffolds for 3D In Vitro Skin Aging Models.

Biomaterials play an important role in the development of advancing three dimensional (3D) in vitro skin models, providing valuable insights for drug testing and tissue-specific modeling. Commercial materials, such as collagen, fibrin or alginate, have been widely used in skin modeling. However, they do not adequately represent the molecular complexity of skin components. On this regard, the development of novel biomaterials that represent the complexity of tissues is becoming more important in the design of advanced models. In this study, we have obtained aged human decellularized dermal extracellular matrix (dECM) hydrogels extracted from cadaveric human skin and demonstrated their potential as scaffold for advanced skin models. These dECM hydrogels effectively reproduce the complex fibrillar structure of other common scaffolds, exhibiting similar mechanical properties, while preserving the molecular composition of the native dermis. It is worth noting that fibroblasts embedded within human dECM hydrogels exhibit a behavior more representative of natural skin compared to commercial collagen hydrogels, where uncontrolled cell proliferation leads to material shrinkage. The described human dECM hydrogel is able to be used as scaffold for dermal fibroblasts in a skin aging-on-a-chip model. These results demonstrate that dECM hydrogels preserve essential components of the native human dermis making them a suitable option for the development of 3D skin aging models that accurately represent the cellular microenvironment, improving existing in vitro skin models and allowing for more reliable results in dermatopathological studies.

Research Progress in Skin Aging and Immunity.

Skin aging is a complex process involving structural and functional changes and is characterized by a decrease in collagen content, reduced skin thickness, dryness, and the formation of wrinkles. This process is underpinned by multiple mechanisms including the free radical theory, inflammation theory, photoaging theory, and metabolic theory. The skin immune system, an indispensable part of the body's defense mechanism, comprises macrophages, lymphocytes, dendritic cells, and mast cells. These cells play a pivotal role in maintaining skin homeostasis and responding to injury or infection. As age advances, along with various internal and external environmental stimuli, skin immune cells may undergo senescence or accelerated aging, characterized by reduced cell division capability, increased mortality, changes in gene expression patterns and signaling pathways, and altered immune cell functions. These changes collectively impact the overall function of the immune system. This review summarizes the relationship between skin aging and immunity and explores the characteristics of skin aging, the composition and function of the skin immune system, the aging of immune cells, and the effects of these cells on immune function and skin aging. Immune dysfunction plays a significant role in skin aging, suggesting that immunoregulation may become one of the important strategies for the prevention and treatment of skin aging.

Treatment of horizontal neck wrinkles by Endolift laser: Biometric measurement.

BACKGROUND: One of the common esthetic complaints of patients is horizontal neck wrinkles that have limited treatment modality. AIM: In the present study, we evaluated the efficacy of the Endolift laser on the horizontal neck wrinkles. METHODS: Totally, 10 healthy female and male patients suffering horizontal neck wrinkles were joined in this study. All patients are treated with Endolift laser. The effect of the Endolift methods on the horizontal neck wrinkles was evaluated by biometric parameter changed results with Cutometer, Visioface, and the Skin Ultrasound Imaging system. Also, three blinded dermatologists and patients' satisfaction were evaluated. RESULTS: The Visoface results showed that the Endolift laser treatment significantly decline the depth and area of horizontal neck wrinkle. The skin ultrasonography results reported the epidermis and dermis density and thickness were significantly increased. Also, the cutometer outcomes displayed that the Endolift laser treatment can increase skin elasticity. Also, significantly a greater number of patients were well satisfied with the technique. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, Endolift laser is a safe and effective method for decreasing the horizontal neck wrinkles and improving the appearance of the neck. This procedure does not require general anesthesia and recovery time.

The therapeutic effects of ADSCs on photoaging of skin induced by UVB irradiation.

Skin photoaging affects appearance and is associated with a variety of skin diseases, even skin cancer. Therefore, the prevention and treatment of skin photoaging is very important. However, there is a lack of effective evaluation methods, so it is an urgent problem to explore a comprehensive, non-invasive and in vivo evaluation method. Adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (ADSCs) are widely used to improve skin conditions as easier to obtain and positive effects. Recently, as the development of ultrasound technology, skin ultrasound has been widely used. Changes in skin layer and structure can be observed by high-frequency ultrasound (HFUS). In addition, Shear wave elastography (SWE) technology can be used to monitor the change of skin hardness. However, it is necessary to further explore the ultrasound parameters in interpreting histological changes. We simulate the progression and treatment process of human skin photoaging by using UVB-induced nude mice skin photoaging model and ADSCs injection. The analysis of the degree and therapeutic effect of skin photoaging was conducted by HFUS, SWE and to verify with histopathology. Our study aims to clarify the value of HFUS combined SWE techniques in evaluating the degree and therapeutic efficacy of skin photoaging, which provides theoretical basis for diagnosis and treatment evaluation systems.

Use of platelet rich plasma for skin rejuvenation.

OBJECTIVE: Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) is recognized as a safe and effective therapy for regenerative skin healing and rejuvenation, utilizing autologous blood enriched with various growth factors. This review aims to assess the efficacy of PRP treatments for skin rejuvenation. METHODS: Keywords such as "platelet-rich plasma," "rejuvenation," "skin aging," and "wrinkles" were queried on Ovid, PubMed, and MEDLINE to identify pertinent studies on PRP treatment for skin rejuvenation. RESULTS: Analysis revealed that PRP treatment led to significant enhancements in multiple facial parameters after one to three sessions. Improvements were noted in skin pore size, texture, wrinkle reduction, pigmented spots, collagen density, hyaluronic acid levels, and protection against ultraviolet damage. Combining PRP with hyaluronic acid demonstrated a synergistic effect, particularly enhancing skin elasticity in patients with lower body mass index and firmness in individuals aged 50s and 60s. Incorporating both physical and biometric data for assessment proved superior to relying solely on physical observations for evaluating subtle skin quality and structural changes. CONCLUSION: This study underscores the efficacy of PRP monotherapy for skin rejuvenation and emphasizes the necessity of standardizing PRP preparation protocols in future investigations. Heightened awareness and advancements in technology have contributed to the emergence of higher-quality, less biased studies supporting PRP as a reliable and safe therapeutic option for skin rejuvenation.

Use of a fractional 1570-nm diode laser scanner for non-ablative face and neck rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: The use of non-ablative fractionated lasers for skin rejuvenation has been proven to be effective in improving skin texture, and has become popular due to minimal wounding, significantly shorter recovery times and decreased adverse effects. OBJECTIVE: To retrospectively analyze improvement in skin texture in healthy women aged over 18 years with Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV. METHODS: Participants received three facial and/or neck treatments with the 1570-nm fractional scanning diode laser at 1-month intervals. Three months after the last treatment session two blinded evaluators assessed skin improvement using before and after photos. Pain and patient satisfaction were recorded. RESULTS: Sixteen women with a mean age of 45.4 ± 4.1 years (range 35-50 years) and skin type II-IV were included in the analysis. All 16 participants received facial treatments and seven (43.8%) also received neck treatments. Three months follow-up evaluation showed that the majority of participants had a visible change in the treated areas. Mean pain score was low and decreased with each treatment session. CONCLUSION: Skin treatment using fractional scanning 1570-nm diode laser improves skin laxity in women with skin types II-IV. Larger studies are warranted to further clarify the efficacy and safety of this modality.

Photoaging assessment by Glogau classification: correlation of dermoscopy findings in the coastal population of Indonesia.

INTRODUCTION: To date, there is no gold standard for identifying photoaging. This study investigates the correlation of photoaging profiles based on the Glogau scale and the dermoscopy photoaging scale (DPAS) in a coastal population. METHODS: An analytical cross-sectional study was conducted at Cilincing Municipal Health Center in Jakarta in October 2022. Individuals living in the coastal area, 20 years and older, with Fitzpatrick skin types III-V, and with a mean daily sun exposure of ≥ 3 hours were included. The Glogau scale and DPAS were assessed through history taking, physical examination, and dermoscopic examination. A Spearman correlation test was used to assess the correlation between the Glogau scale and DPAS. RESULTS: Thirty individuals with a mean age of 41.5 ± 11.5 years participated in the study. The median Glogau score was 3 (range: 2-4). The mean DPAS score was 28.5 ± 5.6. Lentigo, hypo-hyperpigmented macules, telangiectasia, deep wrinkles, and superficial wrinkles were observed in all subjects. There was a moderate positive correlation between the Glogau scale and DPAS (r = 0.536, p = 0.002). CONCLUSIONS: The Glogau scale has a significant correlation with DPAS. DPAS can serve as a reliable, easy, practical, and fast diagnostic tool to assess the severity of aging.

The efficacy and safety of neubotulinumtoxinA for the treatment of forehead horizontal lines in Asians - A clinical, prospective, interventional, split-face study.

BACKGROUND: Botulinum toxin injections are widely sought after in the field of medical aesthetics, offering consumers a variety of brand choices. Two commonly available botulinum toxin products, onabotulinumtoxinA and neubotulinumtoxinA, are featured in numerous clinics, leading many to question whether there are discernible differences in results, given their varying price ranges. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of neubotulinumtoxinA for the treatment of forehead horizontal lines. METHODS: A 12-week prospective, single-centre, interventional split-face study was conducted, including 30 subjects. These enrolled subjects received a single treatment session, with neubotulinumtoxinA applied to the left side of the forehead and onabotulinumtoxinA to the right side. A superficial injection was performed in all individuals, where the product was injected subdermally in the frontalis muscle. Evaluation was conducted at baseline, 7 days, 14, days and 4, 8, and 12 weeks after treatment, both when the eyebrows were at maximum lift and in a resting position. Treatment efficacy was assessed by two physicians and self-assessed by the patients, using the Fitzpatrick Wrinkle Classification system. Adverse events were documented to evaluate safety. RESULTS: The study found no statistically significant difference in the efficacy of neubotulinum and onabotulinum for treating forehead wrinkles, as indicated by p-values above 0.05 for both static and dynamic conditions. No safety and adverse events were observed in both formulations. CONCLUSION: This study has demonstrated that neither formulation is inferior to each other in the treatment of forehead horizontal lines.

Oral consumption of Bonito fish-derived elastin peptide (VGPG Elastin® ) improves biophysical properties in aging skin: A randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study.

BACKGROUND: Recent in vitro and in vivo studies have suggested that the elastin peptide improves the skin's biophysical properties, enhancing the proliferation of fibroblasts and elastin synthesis, resulting in anti-aging properties. Therefore, we conducted a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study to clinically evaluate the effect of elastin peptide intake on human skin. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Healthy adult participants (N = 100) were randomly assigned to receive a test product containing 100 mg of Bonito elastin peptide (VGPG Elastin® ) or placebo. In this study, all participants were Asian from Korea. The parameters of skin wrinkles, hydration, and brightening (melanin index) were measured at baseline and 4, 8, and 12 weeks after intervention. RESULTS: The average skin roughness, maximum peak-to-valley values, maximum peak height of the wrinkle, maximum valley depth of the wrinkle, average maximum height of the wrinkle, and eye wrinkle volume improved considerably in the test group compared with the placebo after 12 weeks of intervention. Skin hydration was enhanced, and the melanin index was significantly lower in the test group than in the placebo group. No participant experienced adverse events related to the test product. CONCLUSION: Oral consumption of Bonito elastin peptide (VGPG Elastin®) reduced fine wrinkles, enhanced skin moisture, and decreased melanin index without significant adverse effects and may be a promising anti-wrinkle, anti-dryness, and anti-pigmentation treatment.